Loris era mio papà. Era un Capo Commissario della Costa Crociere. E' sempre stato un amante della buona cucina ed un ottimo chef. Le sue presentazioni di menù e cibi sono famose così come le mangiate che organizzava.
Wild boar ragù my way. This year wild boar hunting has been very abundant and hundreds of these animals have been killed. So it happened that a friend, with his fridge now very full, gave me a nice piece of fresh meat from this animal. I love the red meat of this animal but I don't like the wild flavour that often accompanies it once cooked. Therefore, contrary to what is usually done, after cutting the meat into cubes I marinated it overnight in plenty of white wine, without adding spices or aromatic herbs. In the morning I drained the wine completely in the sink and let the meat rest outside the fridge for an hour. In the meantime I prepared a mixture of onion, aromatic herbs and a little garlic and I soaked some pieces of dried mushrooms. I then floured the meat and fried it in a pan with a little extra virgin olive oil to allow it to expel all the water it contains. When the meat was well browned and dry, I removed it from the pan and put it in a large saucepan where I sautéed the onion, herbs and chopped dried mushrooms in plenty of extra virgin olive oil. Then I moistened everything with more white wine and, once evaporated, I added the tomato puree and left to cook for at least an hour on low heat. When the meat was cooked enough and became nice and tender, I finely chopped about half of it and added it to the sauce, cooking until everything was well blended.
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The recipe in my own way to prepare tagliatelle with wild boar sauce at home – La recette à ma façon pour préparer des tagliatelles à la sauce de sanglier à la maison – La receta a mi manera para preparar tagliatelle con salsa de jabalí en casa – A receita do meu jeito para preparar tagliatelle com molho de javali em casa – Das Rezept auf meine Art, um Tagliatelle mit Wildschweinsauce zu Hause zuzubereiten – Công thức theo cách của riêng tôi để chuẩn bị tagliatelle với nước sốt lợn rừng tại nhà – 在家里用我自己的方式准备野猪酱意大利面的食谱 – 自宅でワイルドボアソースを使ってタリアテルを作る自分なりのレシピ
Tagliatelle with mushroom sauce. One of the tastiest and simplest sauces there is: mushroom sauce, this time seasoning a nice plate of tagliatelle.
This is the recipe and Loris' anecdotes:
Dried mushroom sauce.
This sauce, very different from the one made with fresh mushrooms, is part of the inland tradition. Nowadays you can see tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms on the menus of certain restaurants but, at least in the hinterland of the Riviera di Levante, these are the excellent tagliatelle with dried mushrooms that are part of the old tradition of these parts and are made with the addition of tomato sauce. Therefore, apart from being in mushroom season, if this dish is served without tomato, the mushrooms used are certainly frozen, perhaps with the addition of a few pieces of dried ones to give them a little more aroma. Years ago I had a friend from Santo Stefano d'Aveto, now deceased, who was a great trader of dried mushrooms and it is difficult to imagine what a large market there is behind this product... I remember that this friend had a refrigerated warehouse where he kept tons of dried mushrooms that came from all over Europe and that he also kept for many months to sell them when the season and the prices were more favorable. Now many anecdotes related to mushrooms come to mind but I don't want to bore you with these memories of mine. A particular memory is from many years ago when I was in Sicily doing my military service and I had a Calabrian comrade whose family traded in fresh mushrooms. Once, during a short leave, I went with him to his village, Stilo, at a warehouse of his family there were tons of fresh mushrooms that were brought by the locals. The mushrooms were divided by size, quality, type and then treated by wise women who prepared them to be taken to the city and sent to the markets, others were prepared to be put in oil and others were dried. Evidently, in the early seventies, there was not yet the possibility and culture of freezing.
Here, in many restaurants in the first hinterland, excellent dishes of tagliatelle with dried mushrooms (with tomato) are served, as an alternative to the traditional dishes of ravioli with Genoese ragù or pansotti with walnut sauce.
The recipe for making the sauce with dried mushrooms is very simple. First of all you need good quality mushrooms and it is not essential to choose the most expensive ones but the most fragrant ones. I leave the dried mushrooms to soak for a short time in cold water, which I change after a couple of minutes to eliminate any residue of soil and leaves and replace it with more cold water. Separately I fry in the right amount of extra virgin olive oil a little finely chopped onion, a head of garlic, a lightly chopped rosemary and a couple of bay leaves. I then add the mushrooms soaked in the water and chopped to the soffritto. As soon as the mushrooms have warmed up I bathe them lightly with a little white wine, add the right amount of pureed tomatoes and a little salt. When the sauce begins to brown (it is not a long cooking time) I add, if necessary, a little of the second water in which I soaked the dried mushrooms. At the end, I measure and adjust the salt and add a very finely chopped parsley.
I also like to add a little hot chili pepper to the soffritto.
The recipe for making tagliatelle with mushroom sauce at home – La recette pour faire des tagliatelles à la sauce aux champignons à la maison – La receta para hacer tagliatelle con salsa de champiñones en casa. – A receita para fazer tagliatelle com molho de cogumelos em casa – Das Rezept für die Zubereitung von Tagliatelle mit Pilzsauce zu Hause – Công thức làm tagliatelle sốt nấm tại nhà – 在家制作蘑菇酱意大利面的食谱 – 自宅でマッシュルームソースを使ってタリアテルを作るためのレシピ
Ravioli with walnut sauce: the recipe. The variation on the more classic pansotti are lean ravioli with walnut sauce. A typical Ligurian dish with an unmistakable taste.
Outside our area I have seen this sauce prepared in many ways but here, or rather, in our coastal hinterland, the walnut sauce is accompanied by the even more classic "pansotti" or "pansoti": vegetable ravioli or ravioloni of different shapes that can be small like ravioli or large and closed like tortelloni but, in any case, prepared with the typical Ligurian low-egg pasta and stuffed with wild herbs, ricotta, eggs and grated cheese. This pasta was born in Rapallo and its hinterland and then spread throughout the province of Genoa. I have a fond memory of the Valle family who had an old and small restaurant in the Ne' valley, in Frisolino. The grandfather was a wise expert on hunting and his countryside (very well known throughout the valley and in Chiavari). The first son who also helped in the restaurant, the second son a bachelor, a specialist in preparing rabbit, and little Enrico who is now a grown man, married with a family. The pearl of this group of men was Enrico’s mother, wife of the first son, a great cook of the poor and very tasty cuisine of the hinterland. Now that the restaurant no longer exists and that the whole family group is cooking in the valleys of paradise, before talking about the dishes that Mrs. Valle prepared, I can tell you some anecdotes…
English: You couldn’t think of “da Valle” as a real trattoria but rather as a family reunion with other guests/friends and these memories are very vivid because over the years I’ve had all sorts of things: the cutlery was all assorted, like the napkins and it could happen that, like the tablecloths, they were holed or broken but still very clean. Another time, when I had guests, we were greeted by the uncle who prepared the rabbit, sitting on the entrance step, who was putting on his shoes and who, unperturbed, greeted us saying that the rabbit was ready… Between all of them, Enrico aside, they must have had about thirty teeth. The public relations were by the grandfather and the very clever Enrico while the first son waited tables. The greatness of this place consisted in the cuisine, in the poor ingredients, in the parsimony of the oil made in the family but especially in the great mastery of that woman who prepared excellent things with little. The menu was always the same: an appetizer of homemade cold cuts, pansotti with walnut sauce, ravioli with sauce in which you often saw a colombina or another mushroom added to enrich the sauce, roast or cima or mixed fried meat (a little) and vegetables (lots and delicious) and a homemade dessert.
The pansotti were made like ravioli but twice as long and a little wider and the sauce had a scent which is the trick that is never mentioned in its preparation.
Adesso torniamo alla salsa di noci. Per la sua praparazione necessitiamo di buone noci, pane ammollato nel latte e poi strizzato, poco aglio e poi l’aroma finale… a me piace pestare tutto nel mortaio ma si può usare anche il frullatore ad immersione ma poco alla volta per non scaldare la salsa. Io immergo per una trentina di secondi i gherigli nell’acqua bollente e appena tolti li metto subito sotto l’acqua fredda per poi pelarli con maggiore facilità. Intanto strizzo la mollica di pane messa a bagno nel latte e l’aggiungo alle noci, un poco d’aglio senza l’anima interna, poco sale e l’aroma tipico ligure, la erba persa, che a me piace abbondante. Proprio come faceva la signora Valle. Dopo aver pestato bene ed amalgamato il tutto mescolandolo con ottimo olio extravergine d’oliva ligure e la salsa è pronta. A me non piace aggiungere, come fanno in molti, il formaggio grattugiato per insaporire ed allungare la salsa ma allungarla con mezzo cucchiaio d’acqua di cottura e poi ma mettere il formaggio sulla pasta dopo averla servita. Buon appetito!
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Ravioli with walnut sauce: the recipe – Raviolis sauce aux noix : la recette – Ravioli con salsa de nueces: la receta – Ravioli com molho de nozes: a receita – Ravioli mit Walnusssauce: das Rezept – Ravioli với sốt óc chó: công thức – 核桃酱馄饨：食谱 – クルミソースのラビオリ：レシピ
Spaghetti integrali a modo mio. Per 4 persone. Per questa ricetta uso:
– 320 grammi di pasta integrale – 1 sacchetto di bottarga di muggine (di solito viene venduta in confezione di due sacchetti che sembrano due bastoncini marroni/rossastri e che sono gli involucri originali delle due sacche di uova contenuti nel pesce – 1 spicchio d’aglio – peperoncino secondo i gusti – olio d’oliva quanto basta – 2 o 3 pomodorini di pachino per persona – 2 cucchiai abbondanti di pane grattugiato.
Innanzi tutto, come mi insegnò molti anni fa un grande Chef, faccio tostare il pan grattato nella padella antiaderente asciutta, facendo evaporare la poca umidità che ancora contiene per renderlo più digeribili; poi lo metto da parte. Adesso preparo un fondo facendo soffriggere l’aglio e il peperoncino nell’olio d’oliva aggiungendo poi i pomodorini tagliati in quattro parti e privati dei semi e un poco d’acqua per farli cuocere senza che secchino e senza che l’agio bruci.
A questo punto preparo la bottarga grattugiando una delle due uova e aggiungendola al pane grattugiato e mescolando bene. I pezzetti che rimangono più grandi li aggiungo al fondo dell’olio facendoli semplicemente scaldare ma senza che brucino.
Il lavoro è finito: faccio saltare gli spaghetti cotti al dente nel soffritto, li metto nel piatti da portata e li cospargo con la bottarga grattugiata e mescolata con il pan grattato. Mescolo bene prima di servire.
Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe. One of the typical dishes of Liguria are anchovies with lemon.
I collected many lemons that the plant in my garden, as usual, abundantly gave me and I saw in my trusted fishmonger some beautiful local anchovies, not very big, but already of an acceptable size and so I prepared the first lemon anchovies of the season.
I want to describe the preparation that I learned many years ago from an almost illiterate lady. A great woman who was a dishwasher to support the whole family and who had a great talent for cooking.
First of all, choose the anchovies which must be very fresh and of a fairly large size.
Then, calmly, after having removed the head from the fish and, with it, the innards or most of them, put the anchovies in a container with a draft of running water and leave them under this draft for at least twelve hours. Once this operation has been done, you will see that the anchovies will have become white, firm and will have opened slightly to allow you to remove the bones without breaking the meat, leaving the tail attached to the fish. At this point, to follow current food safety rules, place the fish neatly in a container that you will leave in the freezer for at least 48 hours to permanently eliminate any parasites that they may contain. Once the required time has passed, I recommend bringing the fish back to a temperature that allows it to be handled by leaving it in the normal refrigerator to avoid thermal shock damaging the delicacy of the meat and then proceed with the preparation. This is also a very delicate operation that must be done with care and precision.
First of all, squeeze a good quantity of lemons and keep a container of fine salt handy and a low container wide enough to contain the anchovies placed in several overlapping layers. Lightly sprinkle the bottom of the container with fine salt and place a layer of anchovies on top. Once this is done, sprinkle with a little more salt and then cover with lemon juice. At this point make another layer of anchovies that you will place, always with great care, one on top of the other, salting again lightly and covering again with lemon... and continue this operation until you have used up all the fish and make sure that the lemon juice covers it completely. Then put the covered container in the refrigerator and leave it there for 24 hours. After 24 hours, take the container and, always very carefully so as not to move the fish, drain the lemon completely and replace it with olive oil. Sprinkle a little fine oregano on top. The anchovies are ready.
N.B. I know, this preparation is long and cumbersome and can be shortened a lot; you can use vinegar instead of lemon or do other manipulations but the recipe that I proposed to you is certainly the best that I have ever seen even if it is the longest, most difficult and expensive…
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Anchovies marinated in lemon: the recipe – Anchois marinés au citron : la recette – Anchoas marinadas en limón: la receta – Anchovas marinadas em limão: a receita – In Zitrone marinierte Sardellen: das Rezept – Cá cơm ướp chanh: công thức – 柠檬腌凤尾鱼：食谱 – アンチョビのレモンマリネ：レシピ
Anchovies in salt, the recipe. This morning I prepared a small dish of salted anchovies and later I will explain how I did it. While I was cleaning the anchovies that I put in salt last summer, I remembered the salting operation that my maternal grandfather did while I, as a child, watched him carefully. This is a bit of a long story but if you want to read it I would like to tell it to you... We have to go back a long way in the years, when my grandfather told me these stories. He and his brothers were very young and lived near the waterfall, in Riva Trigoso, in the western area. Life was hard and the shipyards were still in their infancy so the means to survive were really limited: many men went sailing others survived by working as farmers/fishermen because both the land and the sea, alone, did not allow them to survive and people had to adapt by doing both jobs. This is exactly what my grandfather and his brothers, nicknamed the "buluin", did. In the summer, therefore, they devoted themselves to fishing for anchovies that was done near the coast, following the shoals towards the Cinque Terre. The boat was a gozzo with a lateen sail, the net was called “manata” and the fishing was done more or less like today but without the help of the lampara; before leaving, the women prepared the barrels of salt and the fishermen followed the coast fishing and salting, until the barrels were full of anchovies and they could then return home. At night they stopped in the small ports, eating fish with the little they received, exchanging the higher quality fish that remained in the nets for anchovies with biscuits and vegetables, while the wine and oil (and often biscuits too) they brought from home. Thus, out of necessity, many dishes were born that later became typical of our cuisine, the best known of which is the “bagnun”. I can almost see my grandfather when, after removing their heads, he would place a layer of anchovies, head and tail, in the glass jar, alternating them with a thin layer of coarse salt. The meticulousness with which he performed this operation was the guarantee of a quality finished product. After a few months the anchovies were ready to be consumed.
I try to prepare the anchovies like my grandfather did, although I'm not sure if he followed the same procedure: first I carefully remove the fish from the arbanella. Then I try to slowly remove as much salt as possible from the anchovies and wash them lightly with a mixture of vinegar slightly diluted with water, opening them to remove the bones. This operation must also be done carefully, trying not to break the fish. Finally, I remove any small bones or salt residues from the fillets and then I squeeze them to remove the vinegar residues and place them on a plate that I have moistened with extra virgin olive oil. I then sprinkle a little chopped garlic and oregano on the fillets and finally cover them with olive oil again. The dish is ready. Enjoy your meal.
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Salted anchovies, the recipe to prepare them – Anchois salés, la recette pour les préparer – Anchoas en salazón, la receta para prepararlas – Anchovas salgadas, a receita para prepará-las – Gesalzene Sardellen, das Rezept, um sie zuzubereiten – Cá cơm muối, công thức chế biến chúng – 咸凤尾鱼，准备它们的食谱 – 塩漬けのアンチョビ、それらを準備するためのレシピ
Ragù alla ligure con involtini, la ricetta. Oggi desidero descrivervi il ragù alla ligure, il “tuccu”, come viene fatto da sempre in casa mia. Non so se corrisponde esattamente ai canoni della cucina ligure ma è veramente ottimo.
Ingredienti per una bella pentola di sugo
Un bel pezzo di matama’ di manzo di circa 300/350 grammi è un paio di salsicce; una cipolla media tritata; olio d’oliva extra vergine abbondante; mezzo bicchiere di vino rosso, alcuni pezzetti di porcini secchi; una lattina di pomodori pelati e poco concentrato; alloro e rosmarino. Per gli involtini: fettine di vitellone nel magro di spalla; cipolla tritata assieme a prezzemolo, pane grattato e salsiccia. Tagliare le fettine e batterle leggermente fino a far loro raggiungere le dimensionI di cIrca 10 cm x 15 (ma non fate i geometri), racchiudere nel loro interno il battuto degli ingredienti appena descritti, e chiudere bene la carne con una stuzzicadenti.
Preparation
Soffriggete la cipolla nell’olio aggiungete la carne e le salsicce facendole rosolare a fuoco vivace e poi gli involtini. Una volte che la carne sarà ben rosolata, bagnate con il vino, fate evaporare ed aggiungete i funghi secchi, gli aromi, i pomodori pelati passati ed il concentrato. Abbassate il fuoco e controllate il sale tenendo conto che la salsiccia è salata. Fate cuocere a fuoco basso per circa un’ora e poi tritate due terzi della carne e aggiungetela, continuando la cottura per un’altra oretta. A casa nostra con il ragù condiamo la pasta e nei giorni successivi serviamo gli involtini con poco sugo e riso pilaf. Questo tipo di accompagnamento degli involtini non è tipico ligure ma è stato introdotto in casa nostra da mia moglie Emma, che è un’ottima cuoca ma che ogni tanto inserisce nei suoi piatti piccoli ricordi della cucina delle sua originip Svizzere e che che ormai fanno parte delle nostre abitudini. Provare per credere. Se non sapete, in altra occasione vi descriverò il riso pilaf, o pilaff o pilaw…
Ligurian meat sauce with rolls, the recipe – Sauce à la viande ligure avec petits pains, la recette – Salsa de carne de Liguria con panecillos, la receta – Molho de carne da Ligúria com pãezinhos, a receita – Ligurische Fleischsauce mit Brötchen, das Rezept – Nước sốt thịt Ligurian với cuộn, công thức – 利古里亚肉酱卷，食谱 – リグーリア風ミートソースロール添え、レシピ
Spaghetti with clams, the recipe. Nowadays it seems normal to eat or order a plate of spaghetti with clams at a restaurant but it hasn't always been like this: once, as far as I know, in Sestri Levante and perhaps in this whole area, clams were not known or at least they were not part of our cuisine. Spaghetti was eaten with muscles, with limpets, with cornetti, with "grunsci" but not with clams, at least as far as I remember. Describing anchovies with peas I spoke of the maternal side of my family and so regarding clams and seafood that live in the sand I will speak of my paternal grandfather, the founder of my family and his wife, a great woman, silent and tenacious, as well as a great cook. My grandfather was originally from Campania (Vietri sul mare), a great amateur fisherman while my grandmother was originally from Parma (Fontanellato/Busseto) and a great cook of that tradition. The grandmother with five children on her shoulders knew how to cook with nothing and made the most of everything her husband caught and brought home every day. The grandparents and their uncles lived near the Miramare Hotel and in the summer I came to them every day to go to the beach. With my cousin, a year and a half younger and now an established architect, we spent the whole day soaking in the beautiful and clear water of the Bay of Silence which unfortunately was not like now: there were very few dead bodies, under the friars there was a large colony of Posidonia and the sand was still alive, populated by every type of marine creature. Just out of the water the rocks were covered in muscles and limpets and in the pools of water there were numerous crabs and other creatures of the shoreline. It often happened that a small octopus would cling to the feet of a shy bather who put his feet in the water or that a small blenny or another small rock fish would remain prisoner in a pool because of the tide. For us who were about ten or eleven years old, it was an infinite joy and fun: we knew every inch of our bay both in the sea and out, we ran barefoot on the rocks up to the dam or swam among the posidonia exchanging the only diving mask to discover a spider crab, an octopus or check out the wonderful large castanets that we respected and whose presence we did not reveal to anyone. Those were the times when in the sea you often saw another great character from Sestri with his lancet who with a long harpoon fished octopuses but who stopped to talk and play with his octopus friend Mario whose story is absolutely true. Sorry if I get lost in my memories but coming back to us, my grandfather had taught us that in the water, just a few centimeters under the sand, lived the great world of bivalve seafood, namely clams, sea truffles, fasolari… With my cousin, in a short time, diving to a depth of about two meters rummaging in the sand with our bare hands, we managed to fish out enough clams and similar for an excellent plate of spaghetti that my grandmother prepared for us. This was in fact a dish of Neapolitan cuisine that my grandfather had taught all of us and that my grandmother cooked masterfully. In our area in Sestri there was a great Neapolitan chef and restaurateur who, with his wife, smiling, pleasant and very kind, began to serve spaghetti with clams. Even today, when I meet Mr. Gianagreco who opened the Don Luigi restaurant at the end of the sixties, I remember those days and thank him.
Recipe for 4 people:
Let's get back to us and spaghetti with clams, I'll describe the recipe as I like it:
About 350 grams of whole wheat spaghetti; one kilo of clams; two cloves of garlic, two ripe tomatoes, a good glass of extra virgin olive oil, a little white wine, chopped parsley.
I recommend opening the clams separately to avoid that a single one full of sand ruins the sauce, shell a part and keep the liquid. Then fry the chopped garlic in the oil, add the clams and the tomatoes cut into cubes. When the seafood has heated up, add a little wine, let it evaporate and add the well-filtered cooking liquid and leave to cook for about ten minutes. Add the pasta cooked al dente, mix it by salting it and serve it after sprinkling it with plenty of chopped parsley. Enjoy your meal and here is the photo of the dish:
A nice plate of wholemeal spaghetti with clam sauce, the recipe – Une belle assiette de spaghettis complets à la sauce aux palourdes, la recette – Un buen plato de espaguetis integrales con salsa de almejas, la receta – Um belo prato de espaguete integral com molho de amêijoas, a receita – Ein schöner Teller Vollkornspaghetti mit Muschelsauce, das Rezept – Công thức làm đĩa mỳ spaghetti nguyên cám sốt ngao thơm ngon – 一盘美味的全麦意大利面配蛤蜊酱，食谱 – 全粒粉スパゲッティのアサリソース添えの素敵なプレート、レシピ
Anchovies with peas, the recipe. This morning I found, in the Leripesca shop in Sestri Levante, some beautiful local anchovies and some childhood memories came back to me. The anchovy, for me, is the princess of the kingdom of blue fish, in turn on the pedestal among the products of the sea. The anchovy can be prepared in a thousand ways, both cooked and raw (in this case after 96 hours in the freezer); the local one is seasonal but it is in the month of May, when the water is still fresh, that it is the right size and that for me lends itself best to the preparation with peas, also seasonal. Once again I do not know if the recipe I am about to describe is the true Ligurian one but it is the one that an aunt of mine used to prepare, considered the most thrifty among the very thrifty women in my maternal family. As a child I often went to this aunt of mine, the wife of a brother of my grandmother who, like the whole family, lived in the first hinterland where the fishmongers came with the cart and the boxes of blue fish caught during the night and who called the women to sell them the very fresh catch. At this moment I smile because I think of my aunt, a beautiful woman, tall, thin with wavy blond hair and very clear blue eyes, who died at 96 years old... My aunt went to buy anchovies for the family, composed of four adults but she did not ask for a weight, like half a kilo, but a number, no more than 15/16 depending on the size. To the anchovies she added so abundant peas from the garden and pieces of dry bread, saved from the little that was left over and that was usually part of the mash for the chickens. Here is the very simple recipe for 4 people:
About 800 grams of anchovies, 300 grams of fresh peas, shelled, a little tomato paste, half an onion, a clove of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, a few tablespoons of white wine.
Separately, lightly cook the peas in boiling salted water. In a low pot, preferably terracotta, fry the chopped onion and garlic in oil, add a little wine and add the concentrate, diluting with a little of the pea cooking water. After a few minutes, when the base is well blended, add the peas and cook and blend this base well. Taste if salt is needed. At this point, when the base is very hot, add the anchovies and immediately cover the pot with a lid. Leave to cook for a few minutes and serve immediately with croutons. I use wholemeal bread from the Vassallo bakery in Sestri Levante…
Why do we use tomato paste? Once upon a time, tomatoes only grew in the summer and, towards the end of this season, bottles were prepared at home with the sauce and the paste that was used in the most daring preparations.
This is the preparation:
This is the final dish:
Anchovies with peas, the recipe – Anchois aux petits pois, la recette – Anchoas con guisantes, la receta – Anchovas com ervilhas, a receita – Sardellen mit Erbsen, das Rezept – Cá cơm với đậu Hà Lan, công thức – 豌豆凤尾鱼，食谱 – エンドウ豆とアンチョビ、レシピ
